Get set for a true adventure – a multi-sport tour that incudes cycling, hiking, swimming, and, for those who wish, horseback riding. There will even be a city walk in Manzanillo, a lively port city with a history of smuggling during colonial times, and, more recently, the birthplace of the Cuban Communist Party.
Our focus on this tour will be getting up and over Pico Turquino, Cuba’s highest mountain at nearly 2000 metres in the ruggedly majestic Sierra Maestra mountains. In 1953, it was at Turquino’s summit that Celia Sanchez, Fidel Castro’s most trusted companion, placed a bust of the most influential figure in Cuba’s revolutionary history, José Martí. And it was high up on Turquino’s slopes that Fidel Castro established his revolutionary “comandancia” (headquarters) three years later at La Plata. It was from this impressive location that he directed the Cuban Revolution until his army was strong enough to descend and take over the whole island in 1959.
The buildings at la Plata remain as a museum and a place of pilgrimage for graduating university students. This area is hot during the day, but the higher one gets the more unpredictable the weather can be, including the occasional fog and sudden rainfalls and cold night time temperatures. On one occasion, some of us camped overnight in a hut in these mountains and were grateful for the aluminum sleeping bags we had brought with us, despite the crinkling noise they made every time we moved.
The cycling part of this tour will begin in Holguin and end temporarily in Bartolomé Masó, a small town in the Sierra Maestra foothills. From here, we will begin our hike in these ruggedly scenic mountains filled with birds, especially hummingbirds, and home to plants found nowhere else in Cuba. There are few other animals and even fewer people, so we will be packing in our own food and water in our backpacks. You will see why this was ideal guerilla territory and would be well advised to wear hiking shoes or boots, long pants and long-sleeved shirts and to use walking poles for the three days of trekking.
From our starting point it is only 3k to La Plata, but the narrow path can make it a challenging hike. Coffee is grown here, and one of the treats of this part of the tour will be the opportunity to buy dark-roast Cuban coffee from a local family. There is no fresher coffee than what these mountain folks produce and roast themselves.
The cycling part of the tour will start again on the other side of Turquino with a ride to an all-inclusive beach hotel for two days during which we can visit an insecticide-free bee farm on horseback (or by jeep) before getting back on the bikes for the final leg to Manzanillo. Along the way, we can stop at Pilon where Celia Sanchez grew up under the influence of her extraordinary father before she joined Fidel Castro in the mountains.
Accompanied by a youth cycling club from Las Tunas, the terracotta ceramic decorated “City of Sculpture”, we will ride the last leg to Las Tunas where the club members will host us for a typical Cuban pig-roast. There we can donate much-needed cycling equipment and gear to them before bussing back to Holguin the next day for the flight home from what we hope will have been an interesting and enjoyable experience for all of you.
Here we go up and over, a pilgrimage taken by many university Students upon Graduation. We have been into Fidel’s Camp at La Plata on many occasions. We had even gone up to the first mountain hut I am not sure of the elevation of the hut but it was a cold night, luckily we had taken those aluminum sleeping bags. Those things certainly keep you warm but the crinkling noise of the aluminum rather gives the impression of how a turkey must feel at thanksgiving.
This is a new adventure for us and is classed as a multi-sport event, with cycling, trekking in the mountains, horseback riding (there will be a jeep ride for those fearful of horses). A city walk will be included in the City of Manzanillo.
The tour will begin at the airport pick up. Our guide Lismar will be there to greet you. Recognise him in a red white and blue cycling shirt. If you do miss him, the bus will have a Bicycle Breeze sign in the window.
Basically in the rough this tour will begin at a hotel at the top of a hill in Holguin, you will ride just 77k to the city of Bayamo, with more cycling the next day into the sugar mill town of Bartolome Maso. The next day you will be taken by taxi up into the Sierra Maestra, leave your bike on the bus, you will not need it for the next three days. Take with you a small back pack both your bike bottles full with water, you will need more water, I think at least 2 liters. A camelback back pack will be ideal. The last time I slept up there the food was awful, bring your own enough to last the next two days on that mountain.
Don’t forget the walking poles and wear your walking boots, from this point on, thongs, sandals and running shoes are not appropriate for what is coming up. Long pants and sleeves are best on this mountain adventure. The taxi will take you to the park office where you will meet your trekking guide, he may or may not speak English, don’t worry, Lismar will be with you, his English is perfect. The taxi with then take you up the steepest road in Cuba to a parking spot at the gateway to la Platica (Fidel’s mountain camp) It is only a 3k hike in, this is not an easy walk, along riverlet beds that drain the mountain you will emerge at was at the time of the conflict, a small village covered by a canopy of trees hiding this camp from the planes of Batista seeking their location in order to bomb it. This constant bombing was obviously unsuccessful and did nothing for Batista’s popularity with the people of the Sierra Maestra.
Walking back from the camp you will be able to buy a coffee from a local family, you will not get fresher coffee anywhere but my guess is the mountain people will over roast it. If you like dark roast you will love it. Beyond you will walk out to the gate and go onto the overnight hut. Bring your own entertainment, this is not a beach hotel !. After breakfast you are going beyond my past walks in these mountains, on an 8k uphill hike to La Aguada (mountain camp).This route is not often used but it is maintained. Next continue climbing until the peak, and then go down to Las Cuevas, where the tour bus will be waiting for the group. Pick up the bikes and ride for 2 hours,it is 44k, or just jump on the bus to the next hotel. This will depend on how much light of day is left and possibly how you feel. Your next two nights will be in a real hotel at Marea del Portillo. This is an all inclusive. The food is a great improvement to the mountain, beds are comfortable. After a breakfast, we have a journey by horseback to a bee farm; and some wonderful insecticide-free honey. If you are afraid of horses let us know and a jeep ride will be arranged for a trip up a mountain road for a picnic.
After your two night stay by the beach there 105 k ride to Manzanillo. The ride will take you along the south road (this section is paved) to the village of Pilon, where you will be able to visit the former home and medical practise of Dr. Manuel Sanchez (Celia’s father) The ride to Manzanillo is mostly flat except the first three kilometres which rout you uphill over the western most end of the mountain range. If you are a weak cyclist or just plain lazy, take the bus up and over. The city of Manzanillo is devoid of a good hotel and here we will stay in casas. Do a city walk with a local guide, there is more to this city than is commonly known. For instance is was the birth place of the Cuban communist party which was granted permission to form by; believe it or not Batista, during his first term of office and long before Fidel’s revolt. After your city walk, take a bus ride to a meeting point in the road where the kid’s cycling club from Las Tunas will meet you and escort you into Las Tunas and your hotel. This evening you will party with this club and some parents at a pig roast, bring some alcohol and soft drinks. Here we will drop off any donations that these young athletes desperately need.
The next day is; as I used to call it at school (Happy Home Time). In all sincerity, we hope you enjoyed this holiday and look forward to your return, happy to meet sorry to part happy to meet again.